Monday 31 October 2011

Store Street Espresso: Go for great coffee and hope the service improves

Hip, Happening Store Street
I have been through one revolution and now I am living through another. Twenty years ago I worked as a barrista in cafes and restaurants in Melbourne, just as the independent cafe culture hit town. (Prior to then were the Dark Ages where cafes were unheard of outside of Little Italy and coffee meant Nescafe). Way back then, we were trying to provide excellent coffee and food in simple environs whilst giving friendly and enthusiastic service. It was a revelation for a small-town boy who didn't know his ristrettos from his flat whites. I Loved it - the coffee, the food and most of all the customers.

For the past couple of years we have been seeing a similar revolution in London with the opening of independent Aussie/NZ-style cafes: think Flat White and Providores, Tapped & Packed, Lantana, Nude Espresso, St Ali and the rest. Most of them are following the same common themes that I saw in Australia all those years ago: cool environment, great coffee, simple food and friendly service. Get it right and you'll have the punters flocking at your door (have you seen the crowds at Lantana on a Saturday morning).

The coffee is the main draw
 Store Street Espresso is very much in the Aussie/NZ-style cafe groove. Located near Oxford Street and off Tottenham Court Road, in some ways, it offers more than its competitors. It has a spacious interior that evokes the feeling of being back in an architecture student lab: natural light, ever-changing art work, deconstructed tables and chair and great tunes. It offers a comfortable environment where you don't feel that you are being crushed by a throng of others. It has hit the jackpot in this sense.

Great cakes




It gets a very big tick for its extremely well made flat whites and cappuccinos, for which its barristas should be applauded. This place shows how far London's coffee culture has come in the past couple of years. Food-wise, it offers simple, but well made fare such as delicious homemade cakes, muffins, pastries and good sandwiches. This is not stuff that blows you away, but in comparison to London's well-known coffee chains, it's a great offering.



Unfortunately, whilst SSE is winning the battle owing to its coffee, food and environment, it may be losing the revolution on some fronts as service can be patchy with some staff appearing to be disinterested in their customers (at both busy and quiet times).

Go for the coffee and the art student vibe. Applaud them for the courage to start a business and hope that they clear-up problems with service.

Store Street Espresso on Urbanspoon

Saturday 29 October 2011

Foodland's Welcome to Autumn and Salute to Halloween: Chocolate Spiced Fresh Fig Cake with Chocolate Ganache

As things turn cold in Londontown and with Halloween just days away,  its time to celebrate with all of my favourite things in the kitchen: spices, chocolate and fresh figs. The basis for this recipe came from the fantastic blog by pastry studio (with some of my own additions such as the ganache and hazelnuts). Ms P and my colleagues noted that it was moist, chocolately with the right hint of spice. 



CAKE INGREDIENTS
1 1/2 cups self raising flour
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 cup crushed toasted hazelnuts
1/2 cup & 1 tablespoon cocoa powder
1/2 cup & 1 tablespoon hot water
1/4 cup & 2 tablespoons vegetable oil (and extra for greasing)
3/4 cup dark brown sugar
3/4 cup sugar
2 eggs
1/4 cup & 2 tablespoons buttermilk
(if you can't find buttermilk add 1 teaspoon of white vinegar to the milk)
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla 
8 fresh figs (and 2-3 extra figs to decorate)


CHOCOLATE GANACHE
250g dark chocolate, chopped
250ml double cream


1. Preheat the oven at 180 degree c/350 degrees f. Oil and place baking paper on the base and sides of a 24 inch round/springform cake tin..


2. Slice the bottoms and tops off the figs and then cut in half. Set aside.


3. Sift the flour, baking soda, salt and spices together. Whisk the cocoa and hot water together until thoroughly blended and smooth. Combine the buttermilk and vanilla.


4. Whisk together the oil and sugars. Add the eggs and blend well. Whisk in the dry ingredients in three additions, alternating with the buttermilk and beginning and ending with the dry ingredients. Add the hazelnuts. Mix just until well blended.


5. Pour into the prepared pan and gently tap the bottom of the pan on the work surface to remove any air bubbles. Submerge the fig halves into the cake.


6. Bake for between 40 - 55 minutes (mine took 55 but recipes vary) or until a skewer inserted comes out almost clean. Cool for 10 minutes. Run a knife around the edges and gently remove the main component of the cake tin. Place cake on a wire rack for an hour/until completely cool.


7.Whilst the cake is cooling, place the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to just before the boil, take off the heat and add the chocolate and whisk vigorously until smooth. Set the ganache aside for approximately 20 minutes to cool. 


8. Slowly pour the ganache over the centre of the cake. So as to ensure that the ganache holds its sheen, try not to work it with a knife or spatula. Simply tilt the cake to ensure that the ganache spreads evenly.


9. Allow the ganache to set for five minutes and then decorate with additional figs (if desired).


Enjoy






8. 

Friday 28 October 2011

The Cellar Bar at Alfred Dunhill:EB Perfection

The stately pile

Has your partner ever chosen a department store over you? On a Saturday morning does a pair of Louboutins at Selfridges (or the whole shoe lounge) win out over your sterling personality? I can at times empathise with the feeling. But what to do when your fashion cred is down and you need a cup of joe to cheer you on your way (and let me admit, clothes or shoe shopping is not for me and I would always rather take the cup of joe than hit the shops).

Central Mayfair (near Selfridges) is not an area I think of when I consider great brunch venues. Fitzrovia has Riding House Cafe, Marylebone has Providors and Soho has a plethora of Aussie/NZ cafes offering the best coffee this town can fathom. Mayfair is for hedge funds and those who wear braces, pin stripe suits and cardinal red socks. But the times they are partially changing.
A secret garden
For many years now, I have wondered past a perfectly formed Georgian mansion in Mayfair that offers the most impossible of things - a secret garden behind a high brick fence, that is actually open to the public for brunch or a tipple or two. So recently, I wondered in and found it to be Dunhill's flagship store. It doesn't offer' cutting edge modernist design or fusion food gone wild, but perfectly executed eggs (and more) in a supremely comfortable setting that would make Lord Grantham smile.
A comfortable, slightly cool interior

The Cellar Bar has a limited and a pretty traditional jolly hockey sticks kind of menu - think bacon rolls, granola and poached fruit or eggs florentine, benedict or arlington (that's the one with smoked salmon - who knew). Sounds not terribly compelling stuff? Think you should just lounge at Pret? Don't. I am going to make a bold statement - The Cellar Bar at Alfdred Dunhill might just make some of the best eggs benedict in central London. It's all about great produce being cooked to perfection: think faultlessly poached organic eggs, hand carved ham, muffins on the right side of toasted and a hollandaise sauce offering the ultimate balance of buttery, lemony, vinegary tastiness. Throw in the fact that you can sit in the garden, that the eggs are a reasonable £8 (remember this is Mayfair) and that the wait staff are friendly and helpful to a fault then you have a winning combination. The only fault, and OK it might be a substantial one, is that the coffee is just well OK and at £3.50 is highway robbery. There is no kick in their cup (something that they really need to rectify to fulfill those Dunhill brand values of offering a fashion conscious urban perspective).
These are damn fine eggs

There is no kick in that cup!


So the next time Ms P leaves me on a Saturday morning for a red-soled boot or a Beatrix Ong heel, then I know where I will be heading (as long as they improve the coffee).


The Cellar Bar @ Alfred Dunhill
2 Davies Street
Mayfair, London W1K 3DJ
T: +44 845 458 0779
W: http://www.dunhill.com/en-gb/thehomes/london/services/cellarbar/

The Cellar Bar at Alfred Dunhill on Urbanspoon

Thursday 27 October 2011

Machiavelli: The Italian Escape Pod

Machiavelli Kitchen & Dining Room on Urbanspoon
Taupe tones, sharing tables and great books
I have always wanted a villa in Tuscany or Umbria. One of those places decked to the rafters in taupe tones, lots of books, natural linen, hand sawn wood and interesting furniture. A place that would be focused around cooking, eating, reading and escaping the rate-race that London can sometimes become.

Ms P and I can't quite stretch to the villa-dream this decade, but we can stretch to walking to Covent Garden to sample the delights on offer at Machiavelli. It is a bakery, bar, restaurant, delicatessen and book shop  all rolled-up into one offering that fulfills my need for an Italian escape pod. Owned by the Italian restaurant group and food importer that run Manicomio Chelsea and Gutter Lane, it offers reasonably priced Northern Italian cooking in convivial surrounds.

My recent visit coincided with my return from a prolonged period of gorging in Italy and Lebanon (more on that later), and therefore unfortunately I couldn't partake in the entree of salmon tartar with capers and lemon or the buffalo mozzarella with roast beetroot (there were numerous other great choices all between £5 - 7.50).


The crunchiest of crackling but where is me stuffin

There were many offerings in the main menu that tickled my fancy - Tuscan sausages with banana shallots, sage and borlotti beans or the parcel of sea bream steamed with potato and fennel. Ultimately I settled on the stuffed rolled belly of pork with mostardo di Cremona (mustard fruits). I have a fondness for mostardo (I've always enjoyed its addition to pumpkin ravioli) and I wanted to try it with one of my favourite cuts of pork. Machiavelli offered perfectly cooked and presented, generous portions of belly pork with the crunchiest crackling I've had for a long time. Unfortunately on the night I visited, it appeared to be missing its stuffing. I was advised by staff that there my have been fresh herbs added during the cooking process, but these were not apparent in the tasting. I think if they had been added or added in greater quantity this would have increased the levels of flavour in the dish and taken it from good to great.
Perfectly presented and the moscato jelly was a revelation
The dessert menu offered a tantalising mix of all of my favourite sweet things: think salted caramel tartlets with cape gooseberries or roasted quince with spices and ginger biscuits (all between £3.50 - £5). I chose a duo of Italian cheeses with freshly made pane carasau (the thinnest of thin bread) and homemade moscato jelly. The cheeses (pecorino and a strong blue) were perfectly aged and the moscato jelly was a revelation.


Whilst I didn't partake, cocktails and wines by the glass or carafe are all reasonably prices; with all wine coming from the main producing regions of Italy.

On the whole Machiavelli offers great value well cooked Italian-inspired food, with enthusiastic staff in a comfortable escape pod environment.

Machiavelli
69 Long Acre
London WC2E 9JS
T: +442072402125
W: http://www.machiavellifood.co.uk/machiavelli_restaurant


Machiavelli Kitchen & Dining Room on Urbanspoon

Wednesday 26 October 2011

The TF and the Best Gelati in Rome


What could be better - a sunny day, the TF and some San Crispino
For me, there is almost nothing in Rome to better the sight of the Trevi Fountain. You can have your St Peter's and ancient ruins, but there is little to beat the sights and sounds of the gushing water and action-heroesque white marble figures carved so many centuries ago.  It has drama and history all rolled into one elaborate over the top picture.

There is only one thing that can better the TF, and that's gazing upon it whilst woofing down some of the best gelati the Eternal City has to offer. Luckily, on my recent trip I was joined by locals, Roman Fra and Greek Georgia, who gave me the word on the best gelateria in the Old City. 

Steer clear of the tourist tat iridescent ice cream offerings near the fountain and head to the artisan gelati made fresh throughout the day by Il Gelato di San Crispino. It is literally a hop, skip and a jump away from all of the action of the TF, but in gelati terms it is a world away owing to the quality of their ices. 

Meringa al caramello - the best flavour in Rome
From sampling experience, I can tell you that nothing beats  meringa al caramello - delicious fresh meringue pieces in vanilla ice cream with the added extra of burnt toffee shards or the sensational zenzero e cannella - a fantastic ginger and cinnamon combo. Servings are generous (but not over the top) and are only provided in cups (not cones) ranging from one to eight scoops.

For those needing their gelati fix at other monuments, Il Gelato di San Crispino has two other locations in central Rome and one shop at Rome Fiumicino Airport.

So, get licking.

Il Gelato di San Crispino
via della Panetteria 42
Rome 00187
www.ilgelatodisancrispino.it