Sunday 26 February 2012

Hix: Best New Restaurant & Best Place to Drink 2010-11


OK, so I am not a slave to fashion, be it the couture kind (Ms P will assure you of that) or the food/restaurant kind. The urban cool might have been hanging there for ages, but it has taken me while to catch-on to the wonder of Hix Bar and Restaurant - winner of the Timeout 2010 Best New Restaurant and The Observer 2011 Best Place to Drink.

Located in the heart of Soho, Hix offers a contemporary space as well as the best of British tradition in both food and drinks. The basement bar is a modern speakeasy that has plumbed the depths of British cocktail history to recreate the best concoctions from bygone eras. The pressed metal-ceilings,  large zinc-topped bar, jumble of modern and antique furniture and buzzing environment make it a magnet for those with something to celebrate. Cocktails are quirky and creative.
The Hanky Panky - get me another one


Awesome wood pigeon 
The main ground floor restaurant is sophisticated with a contemporary edge. For entree, Ms P couldn't go past the six Brownsea oysters with Sillfield Farm sausages (£15.50), which were deliciously fresh and offered the tang of the sea - the sausages were also a hit. I however was torn between the marinated Manx Queenies with cucumber and wild chervil (£14.50) and the Northhallerton wood pigeon with black pudding and crispy shallots (£9.95). The wood pigeon won out - and I can assure you it was a winner - perfectly cooked pigeon (the right degree of pink) coupled with crispy shallots and the richness of the black pudding (there could however have been more black pudding). Awesome.
Ms P's oysters were delish


The most flavoursome hanger steak
The main menu was a carnivores' delight: jam-packed with a plethora of British fish and an array of well-aged steaks. The silver mullet with Morecambe Bay shrimps and sea kale (£19.95) was calling my name - it was deliciously tender and the shrimp really upped the ante. The sea kale was limited however, and more of it really could have pushed the flavour boundaries. Ms P's hanger steak with baked bone marrow (£19.95), was just the way these things should be - deep, rich and perfectly satisfying. It proved that hanger steak packs a big flavour punch. (If I was doing it all over again, I would also consider the pan-fried pollack with Brae mussels and sea radish (£21.50)).

The silver mullet was a wonder
Deserts at Hix proved that the British really know a thing or two about the sweeter side of life. Who could pass-up blood orange marmalade steamed sponge pudding (£7.50) or a rhubarb fumble (£7.00). For me, my heart was set on the bakewell pudding with almond ice cream (£7.50): think toasted almonds, caramel and rich custard. Ms P assured me that the credit-crunch ice cream with hot chocolate sauce (£1.90) was a match made in heaven. What could be better than vanilla ice cream covered in rich chocolate sauce and shards of homemade honeycomb.
Almond, caramel and custard:mmm

It might have taken me a while to discover Hix, but I assure you I will be back. The place has a buzz that is engaging and the quality of the fresh produce shines. Extremely good British cuisine.




Hix on Urbanspoon

Sunday 19 February 2012

Ristorante Sora Lella: wonderful Roman food

Looking towards Sora Lella & Isola Tiberina
Nothing beats the London winter blues than dreaming of a holiday in the sun. Forgo the seaside pleasures of Sharm el Sheikh or Lanzarote and head to the ultimate European city for art, architecture, culture, pleasure and culinary delights (and good weather): get yourself to Rome.

I love this city for its crumbling mass of history and the enormous array of restaurants (and gelaterias). On a recent visit, whilst London shivered, Rome shone. It wasn't only the sun that quickened the step, it was chancing upon the wonderful Michelin-stared Sorra Lella, located on the tranquial island, Isola Tiberina in the historic centre of Rome.

Continuously owned by the same family for over 50 years, Sora Lella dedicates itself to the art of classic Roman cooking in traditional surrounds. This is not a restaurant for those looking for nouvelle cuisine, deconstructed foams or style over substantive. What you will find is engaging staff, well spaced tables, a calm atmosphere and lots of dark wood.
Crisp and light croquettes
I must admit that I made one grave mistake in ordering, I decided to forgo the pleasures offered by the antipasti course. Fellow diners (all of whom were local Italians - a good sign) raved about the traditional small veal meatballs in fragrant tomato sauce and the artisan prosciutto with fresh buffalo mozzarella. The gods were smiling however, as the waiters took pity and provided me with complimentary potato, mozzarella & prosciutto croquettes. (They provided complimentary bits to anyone who didn't go the whole hog and order antipasti). The croquettes were light, crisp and very delicious.


Awesome tonnarelli

The pasta course (between €12-14), delivered all of the traditional Roman delights that a happy man could want. I loved the sounds of the homemade ravioli stuffed with spinach & fresh ricotta in a pecorino, pepper and fresh Roman mint sauce and the jumbo rigatoni with fish ragu with tomato & fresh basil. However, I couldn't go past the homemade tonnarelli pasta with sausage, guanciale (Roman cured bacon), eggs and walnuts. The tonnarelli was perfectly cooked and the sauce (to me, like a souped-up carbonara) gave off a creamy, nutty texture with rich, salty pork highlights.
The best baby lamb
Don't just visit Sora Lella for the pasta however, as the main course menu is full of the sweet/sour tastes of the region. Roman cuisine delves into the underbelly of the culinary world - literally, as it focusses on the wonderous things that can be done with offal. I wish I had tried the Roman-style veal tripe with tomato and mint sauce (€16) or the mixed lamb offal (liver, heart, spleen) with sage and rosemary (€18).  Nothing however, could stop me from consuming the braised baby lamb with a white wine, vinegar, garlic & rosemary sauce (€20). This was, I can assure you, one of the best lamb dishes I have ever consumed, with the meat meltingly tender and sauce salty, rich and damn delicious. I wish I could have it again and again.

Just something light
Roman food is not known for its lightness, and after three generous portions of deliciousness, I was sure that I really couldn't stretch to dessert. At another visit, I am sure that I would partake in the ricotta cake with sour cherry jam or the ricotta and dark chocolate parfait with amaretto. Once again, the gods of Sora Lella smiled upon me, providing me complimentary vanilla gelato (rich and creamy) with homemade almond biscotti. Simple, but awesomely flavoursome.

Don't go to Sora Lella if you want mod, moody and cool. This is extremely good, traditional Roman food in the calmest and most convivial of settings. The prices might be higher than those on the mainland (ie off the island, over the road in Rome), but it is certainly well worth the short trip.

Ristorante Sora Lella
via Ponte 4 capo, 16
00186 Roma
T: +3906686101

http://www.soralella.com/ita/home.php



If your Roman dreams turn into a wonderful reality, you can't go beyond Trevi BnB Roma. I found it by chance, but it has all of the hallmarks of a fantastic pitstop: large historic rooms, plush beds, high ceilings, luxurious bathrooms and in-room sofas for lounging. To cap it all off, it is a hop, skip and jump from the Trevi Foundtain. The breakfast is pretty damn good as well. My superior double was only €120 a night.

Trevi BnB Roma
via del Lavatore, 83
00187 Roma, Italy
Http://www.bbtreviroma.com/
Tel: +390669380944


http://www.bbtreviroma.com/

Saturday 11 February 2012

Andrew Edmunds - Romantic London restaurant - huddle-up and get close




Snowfall in London calls for romance and Andrew Edmunds, a Soho-based institution hits the high notes for intimate bohemian charm with the right degree of buzz.  Occupying two floors of a small Georgian townhouse, the effusive service and character-filled interior are combined with an inexpensive, limited European-based food menu and an extensive and reasonably price winelist to create a go-to place for when you want a simple supper with the one you love.

Go for the terteloni!

Can you smell the heady aroma of the truffle oil?

I am a sucker for a good carpaccio and therefore couldn't go past the marinated Black Angus beef with wild mushrooms, shaved pecorino & truffle oil (£9.00). On  a freezing night, this hit all the right notes: warmed mushrooms combined with the heady aroma of truffle and delicate tasting beef. Our warm aubergine, puy lentil, pinenut & pomegranate molasses salad (£4.75) was full of earthy goodness and had the right balance of sweet and sour.

A well balanced puy.

The main menu was matched perfectly to the snow falling outside: think hearty classics such as Gloucester Old Spot pork & chorizo stew with peppers & chickpeas (£15.00) or hind of venison steak with mash & braised shallots (£18.50). Whilst these dishes might be calling your name if you visit, we settled on fishier themes. The whole lemon sole with parsley & lemon butter (£18.00) was delicious and perfectly seasoned. Our seared tuna steak with roast daikon, sesame & soy spinach with sweet chilli sauce (£15.00), was the most generous serving of tuna we have ever seen this side of the international dateline. The only let-down was the sweet chilli sauce - something a little more adventurous and homemade would have been better. A big call-out goes to the special of the day: monkfish & lobster torteloni with brown crab & rocket sauce (£20). Our generous serving of homemade pasta perfectly combined our love of carbs and seafood.

The delicate and perfectly seasoned sole.


That is one hunk of perfectly cooked tuna.

Whilst there were many pudding options, we couldn't go past the warmly recommended sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream (apparently it is the second best in London). Whilst generous in size, I didn't feel it had the punch offered by former sticky toffees we have jumped head-long into, and therefore not worth a gold medal. Good, but not great.
Snow = sticky toffee




Andrew Edmunds isn't for you if you want trendy or cutting edge. Go when you want a place with an intimate atmosphere and inexpensive dishes, friendly and attentive service.  Take someone you love (I did).











Andrew Edmunds on Urbanspoon