Cotidie: Michelin-starred Italian Chef Bruno Barbieri opens in London

Sleek slate tones (picture by Mark Whitfield)

Bruno Barbieri's culinary trend setting and innovation has been recognised by Michelin in his native Italy. In a country where cooking is a religion, Bruno is one of the gods. Excitement levels increased in the 'hood when we learnt that Bruno would be preaching his gospel of traditional Italian dishes recreated for a modern setting in Marylebone, central London. Ms P and I ensured that we were some of the first punters through the door this week, during the soft-launch period.

(Picture by Mark Whitfield)

Cotidie's interior (which has been recycled from that used by the previous occupant, Cafe Luc) is subtly fashionable, with a blend of slate tones, amber lighting and sleek table settings. This is minimalism at its best, giving the right levels of comfort and calm with the focus rightly being on the culinary adventure.

The menu is a deconstructionist ride through the Italian kitchen, taking the best dishes and ingredients from across the country and moulding them into something new.

Our entrees, reflected Bruno's creative mindset and the best dishes that Italy has to offer. Ms P  and one of our companions Marcus, chose the  'Zuppa Imperiale', a Bolognese-style bread soup with a capon broth and mortadella quenelle (£13). Both felt that it was satisfying on some levels, but was much too highly salted . My Pietmontese beef tartare with taleggio cheese and pistachio fondue was beautifully presented but once again the seasoning was unbalanced. The beef appeared to have been mixed with some form of cured meat (or had been overly salted) and this impacted the ability to enjoy the flavours of the fondue. Fifi, another companion chose the smoked aubergine tartare with garlic, mint, pressed olives and burrata sauce (£11). It was enjoyable, but could have had more depth. If I return, my bet for entree would be the 'fregola' pasta cooked in seawater with a shellfish and seawater stew (£18). Sounds like an adventure.

Smoked aubergine tartare with garlic, mint, pressed olives and burrata sauce (£11)

'Zuppa Imperiale', a Bolognese-style bread soup with a capon broth and mortadella quenelle (£13)

Pietmontese beef tartare with taleggio cheese and pistachio fondue (£13)

Our main courses were once again a trip along the Italian Peninsula. Fifi's 'Cacciatore' style ragu in a crispy parcel of pasta on a bechamel sauce (£18) was extremely flavoursome with the tastes of pigeon, duck and chicken coming through in the sauce. Once again, the kitchen excelled itself in the presentation stakes. Food and art on a plate. Both Marcus and I chose the roasted rack of lamb with artichokes and carbonara sauce (£27). This combined a generous serving of prosciutto wrapped lamb with a rich carbonara. The artichoke was perfectly roasted and was the right counterpoint to the richness of the lamb and sauce. The only downside once again to a very pleasant dish being too liberal seasoning. Ms P chose the quadruccio pasta (a short flat square pasta) in a mussel and saffron broth with parsley pesto (£16). It was as expected, but not a revelation. Perhaps if there is a next time we would try the pan seared sea bass with stewed wild chicory and 'pancotto' with aromatic herbs (£32).

'Cacciatore' style ragu in a crispy parcel of pasta on a bechamel sauce (£18)

Quadruccio pasta in a mussel and saffron broth with parsley pesto (£16)

 Roasted rack of lamb with artichokes and carbonara sauce (£27)

We couldn't stretch to dessert, but if we had I would grabbed the rum baba with honey cream and candied ginger (£7.50) or the fried caramel beignets with orange zest and custard (£10). We did try the coffee and tea (my decaf espresso was one of the best I've ever had). The complimentary sweet treats were a nice surprise - we especially liked the tuiles.

Cotidie and Bruno Barbieri's London adventure has only just begun. It has components of a winning venture: interesting takes on traditional dishes, pleasant staff and a great fit out. Its dishes are priced on the upper end of the London restaurant spectrum and therefore need in the coming weeks to be sure bets. It downsides for us were the unbalanced seasoning that impacted overall flavour (and had us calling for the water jug). Over time, Cotidie will smooth out these teething problems. I am sure that we will be back.

Cotidie opens Monday 5th March.